Sri Lanka run down

Sri Lanka really is a fabulous place to visit and I would recommend it to anyone. So much is packed in to a fairly small island – jungle, beaches, mountains and highlands, rivers and lakes. There is something for everyone, and you can be sure that over the next decade hotels and services for tourists will just get bigger and better.

Weather

There’s no denying it, Sri Lanka was HOT and sticky when we visited. Mornings and evenings are the best times to be out and about. For the most part a fan was sufficient to cool us down, but we made sure that most of our hotel rooms had air-conditioning and we really needed the cool overnight. In Habarana our air-conditioning unit broke in the middle of the night and we both woke up because it was too hot to sleep (luckily it was only for a few  hours as the hotel engineer was able to come and fix it). The only exception was the central highland area (Horton Plains, Nuwara Eliya & Ella). Here we found the temperature cooler and really very pleasant.

Getting Around

We planned to pack quite a bit into our three week stint on the island. The places on our list were quite a distance apart and we were unfamiliar with the country so we opted for a private car with a driver/guide. Having now visited we know that it really wasn’t necessary. Most people we met spoke English well and everyone seemed to know at least a little bit. This meant asking for directions, ordering food and conversing was easy enough. Also transport was plentiful and cheap. Three-wheelers are everywhere in the towns and around tourist attractions, and if there aren’t already some waiting outside your hotel the staff will be happy to call one for you. For longer distances you could also take a three-wheeler, otherwise there is a popular train network in many parts of the country. In addition your hotel would be able to organise a car and driver, and there are also public and private buses – some with air conditioning some without.

If you do opt for a tour make sure to check if entry to attractions is included in the tour price! We had assumed entry was included as the attractions were listed in the itinerary, but they were not – and tourist prices were hefty.

Our Itinerary

As it was our first visit we were really after just the highlights of the island and we ended up with the itinerary summarised below.

Colombo
⇒
Negombo
⇒
Colombo – to watch the T20 Cricket final
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Habarana – stopping at Pinnawela, Minneriya National Park & Sigiriya (Polonnaruwa is also nearby)
⇒
Trincomalee
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Kandy – stopping at Dambulla Cave temple on the way
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Nuwara Eliya  – stopping at Ramboda Falls & Mackwoods Tea Factory and visiting Horton Plains
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Ella
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Yala
⇒
Unawatuna & Galle
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Colombo
On our next visit I’d want to stop past Jaffna in the far north, and would also visit Tangalle and Hikkaduwa in the south which we only saw while driving through.
I was glad we got to see the capital city Colombo but a day or two is plenty of time (unless you have a special interest in something there).

Food

Food was one of the things in Sri Lanka that Jen was most excited about. Although there isn’t much evidence in the photos the food was very good. After we left our friend in Colombo we weren’t sure how to get the food we were after and we would often eat meals in the hotel. The food was usually ok in hotels but it was mostly western food. As time went by we tested different local foods and fell in love with most of them. Below is a special mention for some of our favourites.

Seafood

Being surrounded by water, it goes without saying that Sri Lanka will have great seafood. Squid, cuttlefish, juicy prawns, shiny lobsters, succulent white fish and the reddest tuna. You can find it all and more in the island’s fish markets and restaurants.

Rice & Curry

If you like curry you will love Sri Lanka. Almost everywhere sells ‘rice and curry’. Each restaurant’s definition of it varies but you can specify vegetarian, fish, chicken, pork or beef. Out comes a massive plate of rice (white rice or red rice) and several different curry dishes, often accompanied by some popadams and maybe some pickle or chutney and usually a dhal.  Even the dodgiest looking establishments should have great rice and curry. Jen’s favourite curry hands down was pumpkin curry.

Hoppers

If you get the chance you must try hoppers! There are two types – hoppers made with rice flour and coconut milk (sometimes served with an egg inside), or string hoppers made with noodles. Both are delicious and are served as an accompaniment to curry.

Khottu

You can find khottu all over the island. It is roti (or sometimes string hoppers) chopped up together with your choice of meat, vegetables, egg and sometimes cheese. It is a real spectacle to watch it being made as the chef throws the ingredients onto a hotplate and clangs together to metal blades to chop and mix it all up.

Pani Pol

The name alone makes Jen salivate. Pani Pol refers to coconut cooked in a sweet syrupy mix of treacle and spices, and then wrapped in a thin pancake. Breakfast, tea time, dessert – get them whenever you can

Brinjal

From what we could tell this was fried and caramelised eggplant. Each place seems to serve it a little differently – with onion, spices, chilli, pineapple. It was always delicious and we couldn’t get enough of it.

Pol Sambol

This is a mixture of fresh shredded coconut, chilli and onion that is used as a condiment. It was served with EVERY single meal we had – it seems you won’t find a Sri Lankan table without it.

Short Eats

The term refers to an array of small snack items. We would often grab a selection of short eats – fish roti, samosas, dhal balls – from one of the any number of road-side stalls.

Hotels

We were very happy with most of the hotels we stayed in. That said, 4-star Sri Lanka is not the same as 4-star Britain so don’t expect the earth. The wifi is incredibly slow in hotels and there are still some of those quirks that all developing tourist spots have. And Sri Lankan tourism is indeed developing. Our guide was proud to explain that many new hotels – both large and boutique – were springing up all over the island.

Below is a list of four hotels we would happily return to.

Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonLodgeHabarana.htm

This place had a relaxed feel and one of the best buffet dinners we had on the whole trip (which is important when there are only a few restaurants in the area).

Chaaya Blu, Trincomalee http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/ChaayaBluTrincomalee.htm

This place was a bit of drive from the bustling main town but it’s location right on the beach was superb. Plus we loved the design of the lobby.

Cinnamon Wild, Yala http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonWildYala.htm

This hotel is right perfectly situated for safaris around Yala National Park. We loved the wild animals roaming around the grounds, the oasis-like pool, and the modern safari design of the lobby and lounge.

98 Acres Resort, Ella http://resort98acres.com/

Secluded bungalows with an incredible view of the green hills it is nestled amongst.

seaside in Unawatuna & Galle

We had been looking forward to reaching Sri Lanka’s famous southern coast but it was bittersweet as it meant our jaunt around the island was drawing to a close. Heading westwards along the coastal highway we saw some lovely views out the car windows and made a brief stop in beautiful Tangalle (hopefully we’ll be back soon to stay at the stunning Amanwella). Further down the road we stopped at a Turtle Hatchery – entry was 500 Rp each.There are five types of sea turtles that lay their eggs on the beach behind the hatchery. The staff collect the eggs before they can be snatched by poachers and rebury them inside the walls of the hatchery. When the eggs hatch the babies are kept in tanks until they are older and they will then be released into the ocean.

There are mixed views about intervening like this with the eggs, and it seemed very unnatural to see the older turtles swimming in circles in their stark concrete tanks. We were told they were recovering from injuries and when well enough they would be released, which was heartening. .It was special to see turtles up close.

One was rescued after he lost a flipper.
We continued along the road until we reached our hotel in Unawatuna.Calamander Hotel is right on the beachfront.
If you head to the beach and turn right you can weave your way around the beachfront restaurants and hotels to reach the wider stretch of Unawatuna Beach.One of our favourite spots for a bite was Lucky Tuna where you could sit right over the water while eating delicious fresh seafood.

A short drive west from Unawatuna sits Galle Fort. Founded by the Portuguese in the 16th Century its streets are a mix of cafes, boutiques and art galleries.  We stopped for lunch at the popular Galle Fort Hotel. The hotel was formerly a merchant’s mansion in colonial times. The grounds are serene and were the perfect setting for a vodka, lime & soda and a light bite.You can walk along the ramparts and past the lighthouse. We waited until sunset when the weather was cooler.

Jamie woke up early one morning and headed to Mirissa to join a whale watching tour.   The tour cost approximately US$50 and lasted around four hours. Another boat out whale watching in Mirissa

Apparently the whale-watching season lasts from November to April and there are several operators that leave from Mirissa Harbour each morning. There are no guarantees that you will see any whales but Jamie saw a pod of dolphins and a blue whale – the largest animal on earth! Although this is all he saw of it…Click here to see what a blue whale looks like underwater.

 

 

safari time in Yala National Park

After checking in to our hotel we met our jeep driver and, along with our Sri Lankan guide/driver, we boarded a jeep and set off down the dirt road to Yala National Park.We stopped at the gates and climbed out to pay the entrance fees – it cost us approximately US$50 for two foreigners, vehicle entry, entry for one local (our driver/guide), service charge and tax.

Neither of us were quite prepared for just how spectacular Yala National Park was. It was filled many varying landscapes – thick bush and flat grasslands; marshy swamps and rocky ledges; not to mention the sandy beaches. Everywhere we looked there was life of some sort or another.

In the late afternoon our driver got a phone call – a leopard had been sighted – and we sped along the track to the reported location. There we found a few jeeps already lining the edge of the track and we were soon joined by many more as the news had spread. When we contorted our necks and strained our eyes we were able to glimpse two leopards through the bush. It was frustrating to know they were so close but that we didn’t have a great view. Still, we were excited to have seen some spots! No photos though.We stayed down the road from the park entrance at Cinnamon Wild. The individual huts here felt like a bit of luxury surrounded by nature.

Because of its location many wild animals show up on the hotel grounds. Like this guy…
…and these curious monkey’s having a convention outside our hut.

The next morning (while Jen slept soundly) Jamie awoke at 4.30am and met our driver/guide as well and our jeep driver from the day before and they all set off for a dawn safari.

Not long after making it through the gates they were rewarded with a leopard sighting!As well as some other characters.

 

 

Cinnamon Wild, Kirinda, Tissamaharama, Yala, Sri Lanka 

http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonWildYala.htm

Ella | 98 Acres Resort + visiting Dambatenne

After the fun of the fair in Nuwara Eliya we headed to the secluded 98 Acres Resort in nearby Ella. What a spectacular site/sight. After checking in we were escorted in a golf car the short distance to our bungalow.

The surrounding scenery and view had an instantly relaxing effect and to top it off the wifi was some of the quickest we’d had in Sri Lanka (until night time, when it stopped working altogether).
We sat down on our balcony with a couple of Lion beers, before heading a short distance up the hill to the main restaurant and bar.

Very close to the property is a popular Ella viewpoint – Little Adam’s Peak.Little Adam’s Peak is the mound on the left. Seen here from our balcony.

After slothing around all afternoon and morning we didn’t have any excuse not to make the short twenty-five minute hike to the top.
We took the stairs which are more direct but you can also take the winding path. Both are easy to follow.The view across the valley was worth the sweaty ascent. Thankfully there was a lovely breeze when we reached the top which cooled us down.

Dambatenne is an old tea factory established by Sir Thomas Lipton in 1890.Once the tea has been picked it makes its way to the factory. We opted to do a tour, but as it is a working factory they don’t allow any photographs whilst on the factory floor. We found this tour infinitely more interesting than the tour of Mackwoods. Mainly because the factory was hopping with activity and we could see the process – drying, sorting, fermenting – all taking place in front of us. The aroma of tea was fantastic and Jen was particularly enthralled. So much happens to those tea leaves before they reach the supermarket shelf. Most of the tea produced at the Dambatenne factory is sold to local and international distributers at the tea market in Colombo.Silver tip white tea – the finest and most expensive type of Ceylon tea.

We also drove past Diyaluma Falls near Koslanda and decided to make a short stop. The falls are approximately 200 metres high. Apparently you can climb to the top and swim in the pools.

tea + Nuwara Eliya

Not too far from Horton Plains National Park is the beautiful Nuwara Eliya. On route we stopped off to take a look at the Ramboda Water Falls. The view from the road isn’t great but if you walk down the steep hill into the Ramboda Falls Hotel there is much better view and access closer to the falls.

Entrance to the hotel is free however if you are a guest of the hotel or use the restaurant you an take their lift back up saving yourself from the stairs, and even better they have a van that will shuttle you up the short but very steep drive back to the road. Being that the temperature was still warm we had a beverage on the hotel’s lower terrace with a lovely view of the falls, and then took the lazy option back to the road. Worth every rupee!

Driving around this area is spectacular – winding mountains covered in a lush carpet of vivid green tea plantations.

When settlers arrived in the area they first tried growing coffee beans. The crops were decimated from a disease so they moved on to tea and the rest is history. Ceylon tea remains one of the best and most famous throughout the world. There are several tea factories that offer tours. Our guide took us to Mackwoods – one of the larger operations.

A lady showed us around the factory floor and explain the basics of tea production. It was a holiday and so most areas of the factory were not in operation at the time of our tour but it was fascinating to see all the steps that tea takes before it is sold in shops.After the tour (foreign) tourists can have a free cup of Mackwoods tea in their salon which has an attached shop. We also opted for a piece of their moist chocolate cake which was very cheap!

After Mackwoods we continued winding around the tea plantations until we reached the town of Nuwara Eliya. In Nuwara Eliya we stayed at the Grand Hotel. It was a large, old colonial style hotel with beautifully landscaped English-style flower gardens.Photo credit: Lakpura

Apart from the gardens and it’s great location in the centre of town it didn’t have too much else going for it. The staff were friendly enough and although wifi wasn’t available in the rooms it was a reasonable speed when we were able to access it in the lobby areas. The colonial style interior could be seen as charming by some, indeed the grand piano near the check-in desk was a nice touch, but the heavy-on-wood and old English patterned carpet and curtains look didn’t really float our boat. If you are in town though it is worth stopping by the Grand Indian Restaurant which is operated by the hotel. They have a tandoor oven and the food we had when we dined there on two occasions was sensational.The hotel was booked solid, as was all accommodation in town, because, as we found out, Nuwara Eliya is a popular place for families to visit around the new year period. Each April the towns hosts a off-road car rally, a horse racing carnival and a family fun fair and food festival.

On our way out of Nuwara Eliya we made a stop at the Hanuman Temple.Legend has it that Hanuman himself jumped down from a nearby mountain and landed on the site of the temple. Many people travel from around the country and also from India to visit and see his footprints.

hiking to World’s End

Horton Plains National Park sits on a plateau in Sri Lanka’s central highlands. A steep road curves around the mountains until you reach the park entrance.

It’s a popular tourist destination for locals and foreigners and was packed with families when we arrived on what was a Sri Lankan public holiday. The entry fee for foreigners was US$15 each plus an US$8 ‘Service Charge’, plus we had to pay a vehicle fee and an entry fee for our driver. Twelve percent tax is then added which took us to a total of around US$50. We were finding this fairly common throughout Sri Lanka – quite hefty entrance fees for all attractions. Nevertheless the National Park promised captivating vistas and wildlife sightings so we ventured on.

Once inside the gates you drive a bit further until you come upon a parking lot near some toilets and a small shop where you can stock up on water and nibbles. We first headed to the museum which is a fairly dingy affair with faded displays and bad taxidermy.The main activity for tourists is a nine kilometre hike.

At this height the temperature wasn’t so stifling and we were promised an ‘easy’ hike with plenty to see, so off we set. The trail is well worn and mostly easy to follow however there were a few rocky, steep and muddy sections. We saw plenty of Sri Lankan grannies during the way though and it didn’t seem to stop them! The first look out on the trail is Mini World’s End. The plateau stops suddenly and allows lovely green vistas of the valley below.

Another few kilometres along is the main attraction – World’s End. People rave about the views and Jamie had cleared the memory card ready for some stunning scenery shots. When we arrived we were greeted by… mist.Lots of mist.We waited around for a bit but that mist was not going anywhere fast so we trudged on.

The path wound up through tree roots until we reached a steep set of concrete stairs. We followed these to reach Baker’s Falls.The hike ended up being longer than we expected – nearly 4 hours by the time we’d looped back to the starting point. Apart from some birds and lots of squirrels, we didn’t see any of the promised wildlife. What was surprisingly rewarding though was the many different landscapes we traversed in a relatively short time. Dry red dusty plains, lush green forest, muddy puddles, grassy savannahs, crystal-clear freshwater pools and loud flowing waterfalls.On the way out we found this sambar deer resting in a shady bush near the car park. It was definitely the highlight!

We had a driver but it is also possible to take the train some of the way and then transfer to a taxi or jeep. Actually even three-wheelers managed to make it up the steep road.

cultural Kandy

Kandy is thought of as the cultural capital of Sri Lanka. It sits in the geographical middle of the island and its most famous sight is undoubtedly the Temple of the Relic of the Tooth. It lies just north of the beautiful Kandy lake, and houses what is supposedly Buddha’s actual tooth.
Inside you learn the story of how the tooth came to be in Kandy – it was snatched from Buddha’s cremation and smuggled into Sri Lanka by a princess and her prince.You can’t actually view the tooth relic as it remains locked inside the centre of seven gold caskets. The key to each different casket is held by a different monk, so only when they are all together can all the caskets be opened to reach the relic.The Temple of the Tooth Relic, called Sri Dalada Maligawa in Singhalese, is an esteemed and auspicious place to Sri Lankans. Many make a pilgrimage to come and worship at the temple.The grounds also house a very ancient Bodhi tree.

Kandy is also famous for its lavishly adorned dancers. We headed along to a show to watch some in action.As well as spectacular dancing, great costumes, drumming and percussion we were treated to spinning plates, fire eating and fire walking!While it was a show put on purely for tourists it was very entertaining and exceeded our expectations. Jamo was worried it would be boring but it was actually very professional and action-packed. It was held in the Red Cross hall right on the lake and cost 500 Rupees for entry.

Continuing on the cultural theme we stopped past the Peradeniya Botanic Garden.

It was lovely to see a bit of nature but many of the plants and flowers are not native and there are better orchid displays at Bangkok Airport.We love these Dr Suess-like wonky pines and also came across a tree panted by Britain’s Queen Elizabeth.

While we were in Kandy we stayed at the Amaya Hills Hotel. The hotel rests high on a hill about 15 minutes from town.The view is really something.Apart from the view though the hotel is fairly run-of-the-mill. It did the job but we wouldn’t go back there. On our first night we braved the hotel buffet which was dismal so we vowed not to eat there again.

Instead we had a browse around the centre of town to try and sniff out some yumminess. We had arrived smack bang in the middle of the Tamil and Singha New Year. This is a time when families gather together to eat and pray. Almost all the restaurants in Kandy were closed and none of them were serving alcohol. At lunch we found a small restaurant that was open and jumped at the chance to try their version of rice and curry.As well as rice and curry and short eats we also ordered a yummy masala dosa.When it came to dinner time all of the Tamil and Singha restaurants and shops were closed shut. Luckily for us the Muslim Hotel was open and bustling.Making the greasy naan bread.

As well as the requisite curry and dhaal it was also the first time we tried khottu.Khottu is a ubiquitous Sri Lankan food served everywhere. It is made by mixing vegetables, egg or meat with either noodles or roti which is then chopped together (loudly!) on a hot plate. Very entertaining to watch!

 

Kandy really is a beautiful place to visit. Make sure you stop by if you are in Sri Lanka.

Dambulla, batik, and a spice garden

After relaxing in Trincomalee for a few days we headed to Kandy. It is a long drive so we had a few stops along the way.

First was Dambulla Cave Temple. We paid the entrance fee and after a sweaty hike up the hill we came upon a temple complex housing a series of caves.

Each cave was filled with Buddha statues and intricately painted ceilings.

Plenty of cheeky monkeys hanging around – watch your belongings!

It was a lovely way for us to break up the car journey but unless you find it especially interesting, it could probably be skipped.

Next up was a visit to an Ayurvedic Spice Garden. Here an employee took us on a tour of the garden to show us various plants and explain their uses.

Turmeric

Cocoa

At one point in the tour we went into a hut to see a lady making curry powder from the dried ingredients.

The fragrance was wonderful and made us want to grind our own curry powders at home.

The lady then showed us how they make fried snacks by grinding rice then mixing into a batter made with turmeric.

Aloe Vera – plant and cream

It was fun to see how these plants grow and how they can be used but, again, not really worth a stop unless you have a special interest in this field. The short tour was free but guides may expect a tip and will leave you in the shop full of incredibly over-priced products.

Our last stop on the way to Kandy was a batik factory.

Here we saw ladies painting patterns on fabric with hot wax.

They then soak the fabric in dye before painting again to preserve that colour, and then soaking in another colour.

After all the colours have been added the fabric is then boiled to remove the wax, revealing lovely patterns.

The tour was free and led by a spritely old lady with perfect English. There was a shop on site with a huge variety of products made from batik fabric.

Oakray Isiwara Ayurvedic Vilage, Upaliwatta, Dimbulgamauwa, Madawala Ulptha, Matale, Sri Lanka

http://www.oakrayisiwaraayurvedicvillage.com/

Baba Batiks, 793/5 Trincomalee Street, Matale, Sri Lanka

 

 

a peek at Chaaya Blu in Trincomalee

When in Trincomalee, we stayed at the Chaaya Blu on Upuvali Beach.

The water in front of the hotel is a gorgeous aqua colour and is safe to swim in. The beach front itself can get quite windy though.

We both really liked the design of the hotel, especially the vivid colour scheme of white with pops of blue and orange.

The lobby

The hotel is not walking distance to Trincomalee town, but this could also be a good thing depending on how you see it. There is a small convenience store nearby that sells water and snacks, and in addition to the hotel’s restaurants there are a couple of basic restaurants in walking distance so you’re not completely isolated. When you do want to get to town it is only a cheap ride in a three-wheeler. There is usually one waiting in the driveway – if not then the hotel staff are happy to call one for you.

Inside the room

View from our balcony

White, blue and orange used throughout the hotel

The Crab on-site restaurant

Delicious food

Each afternoon men would haul in a fishing net on the beach in front of the hotel

Pros

• Beach front location
• Lovely pool overlooking beach
• Nice design and grounds
• Balcony which overlooked the pool and had glimpses of the beach
• Good breakfast
• Cold towel and welcome drink while waiting to check-in

Cons

• Wifi was free but absolutely dismal so we couldn’t use it
• Room was smaller than most we had in SL
• Extremely s-l-o-w food service at The Crab – we waited over an hour for food (although it was delicious)

 

Chaaya Blu, Sampative Post, Uppuveli, Trincomalee, Sri Lanka 

http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/ChaayaBluTrincomalee.htm

tasting Trinco

Sri Lanka has such fantastic food, but we were finding that many places our guide/driver was taking us to were serving western food. Time to take matters into our own hands.

In Trincomalee we headed to Annapoorani Vegetarian Restaurant for string hoppers! String hoppers (also known as iddiyappam are little baskets made of noodles that you use to scoop up curry and eat with your hands.

The two smaller metal dishes in the below photo show a staple at all Sri Lankan meals – sambol. It is grated coconut, sometimes plain or with herbs, but most often it comes mixed with chilli. We also tried coconut roti.

These are another Sri Lankan food you can see sold everywhere – short eats.

That term can be used to refer to a whole variety of snacks – anything from fried dhaal balls, fish/egg/mutton wrapped in roti (sometimes fried sometimes baked), egg rolls fried in breadcrumbs, samosas, and many more.

Rice and curry is another hugely popular meal in Sri Lanka. A big pile of rice is served with various small spiced dishes. Above is tuna curry, curried aubergine, a vegetarian curry, dhaal and a sort of pickle with pineapple and onion.

Here are the same dishes with the addition of a white fish curry, curried cuttlefish and fried papadums. YUM!

We liked it so much we went back to the same restaurant – City Hotel.

This time we had curry with hoppers.

Hopper batter is made from rice flour and coconut milk mixed with either yeast or toddy (palm wine).

The sides go crispy and the middle rises when cooked – the texture reminds me of a crumpet.

Hoppers can also be served with an egg cracked into them. So tasty.

Coconut is such a staple of Sri Lankan cuisine. One of the best ways to enjoy it is simply hacked open – the coconut water is very refreshing on a hot day.

Just along the beach from our hotel was a small seafood restaurant. We pulled up some chairs here,  ordered some cold beers and asked what was fresh today. The owner brought out some beautiful fish and lobster. We settled on the fish and also ordered some prawns. Here’s the before shot……and after.Not sure what the name of this restaurant was but from Chaaya Blu you turn right and walk for about five minutes and it is really just a shack on Uppuveli beach. The seafood was ultra fresh though! You can also take your own seafood and ask them to cook it up for you.

 

 

City Hotel & Cream House, 473-475 Dockyard Road (next to Arafa Hotel), Trincomalee, Sri Lanka 

 

Anna Poorani Vegetarian Restaurant, 415 Dockyard Road, Trincomalee, Sri Lanka

http://www.tasty.lk/trincomalee/annapoorani-vegetarian-restaurant