Sri Lanka really is a fabulous place to visit and I would recommend it to anyone. So much is packed in to a fairly small island – jungle, beaches, mountains and highlands, rivers and lakes. There is something for everyone, and you can be sure that over the next decade hotels and services for tourists will just get bigger and better.
Weather
There’s no denying it, Sri Lanka was HOT and sticky when we visited. Mornings and evenings are the best times to be out and about. For the most part a fan was sufficient to cool us down, but we made sure that most of our hotel rooms had air-conditioning and we really needed the cool overnight. In Habarana our air-conditioning unit broke in the middle of the night and we both woke up because it was too hot to sleep (luckily it was only for a few hours as the hotel engineer was able to come and fix it). The only exception was the central highland area (Horton Plains, Nuwara Eliya & Ella). Here we found the temperature cooler and really very pleasant.
Getting Around
We planned to pack quite a bit into our three week stint on the island. The places on our list were quite a distance apart and we were unfamiliar with the country so we opted for a private car with a driver/guide. Having now visited we know that it really wasn’t necessary. Most people we met spoke English well and everyone seemed to know at least a little bit. This meant asking for directions, ordering food and conversing was easy enough. Also transport was plentiful and cheap. Three-wheelers are everywhere in the towns and around tourist attractions, and if there aren’t already some waiting outside your hotel the staff will be happy to call one for you. For longer distances you could also take a three-wheeler, otherwise there is a popular train network in many parts of the country. In addition your hotel would be able to organise a car and driver, and there are also public and private buses – some with air conditioning some without.
If you do opt for a tour make sure to check if entry to attractions is included in the tour price! We had assumed entry was included as the attractions were listed in the itinerary, but they were not – and tourist prices were hefty.
Our Itinerary
As it was our first visit we were really after just the highlights of the island and we ended up with the itinerary summarised below.
Colombo
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Negombo
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Colombo – to watch the T20 Cricket final
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Habarana – stopping at Pinnawela, Minneriya National Park & Sigiriya (Polonnaruwa is also nearby)
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Trincomalee
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Kandy – stopping at Dambulla Cave temple on the way
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Nuwara Eliya – stopping at Ramboda Falls & Mackwoods Tea Factory and visiting Horton Plains
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Ella
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Yala
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Unawatuna & Galle
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Colombo
On our next visit I’d want to stop past Jaffna in the far north, and would also visit Tangalle and Hikkaduwa in the south which we only saw while driving through.
I was glad we got to see the capital city Colombo but a day or two is plenty of time (unless you have a special interest in something there).
Food
Food was one of the things in Sri Lanka that Jen was most excited about. Although there isn’t much evidence in the photos the food was very good. After we left our friend in Colombo we weren’t sure how to get the food we were after and we would often eat meals in the hotel. The food was usually ok in hotels but it was mostly western food. As time went by we tested different local foods and fell in love with most of them. Below is a special mention for some of our favourites.
Seafood
Being surrounded by water, it goes without saying that Sri Lanka will have great seafood. Squid, cuttlefish, juicy prawns, shiny lobsters, succulent white fish and the reddest tuna. You can find it all and more in the island’s fish markets and restaurants.
Rice & Curry
If you like curry you will love Sri Lanka. Almost everywhere sells ‘rice and curry’. Each restaurant’s definition of it varies but you can specify vegetarian, fish, chicken, pork or beef. Out comes a massive plate of rice (white rice or red rice) and several different curry dishes, often accompanied by some popadams and maybe some pickle or chutney and usually a dhal. Even the dodgiest looking establishments should have great rice and curry. Jen’s favourite curry hands down was pumpkin curry.
Hoppers
If you get the chance you must try hoppers! There are two types – hoppers made with rice flour and coconut milk (sometimes served with an egg inside), or string hoppers made with noodles. Both are delicious and are served as an accompaniment to curry.
Khottu
You can find khottu all over the island. It is roti (or sometimes string hoppers) chopped up together with your choice of meat, vegetables, egg and sometimes cheese. It is a real spectacle to watch it being made as the chef throws the ingredients onto a hotplate and clangs together to metal blades to chop and mix it all up.
Pani Pol
The name alone makes Jen salivate. Pani Pol refers to coconut cooked in a sweet syrupy mix of treacle and spices, and then wrapped in a thin pancake. Breakfast, tea time, dessert – get them whenever you can
Brinjal
From what we could tell this was fried and caramelised eggplant. Each place seems to serve it a little differently – with onion, spices, chilli, pineapple. It was always delicious and we couldn’t get enough of it.
Pol Sambol
This is a mixture of fresh shredded coconut, chilli and onion that is used as a condiment. It was served with EVERY single meal we had – it seems you won’t find a Sri Lankan table without it.
Short Eats
The term refers to an array of small snack items. We would often grab a selection of short eats – fish roti, samosas, dhal balls – from one of the any number of road-side stalls.
Hotels
We were very happy with most of the hotels we stayed in. That said, 4-star Sri Lanka is not the same as 4-star Britain so don’t expect the earth. The wifi is incredibly slow in hotels and there are still some of those quirks that all developing tourist spots have. And Sri Lankan tourism is indeed developing. Our guide was proud to explain that many new hotels – both large and boutique – were springing up all over the island.
Below is a list of four hotels we would happily return to.
Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonLodgeHabarana.htm
This place had a relaxed feel and one of the best buffet dinners we had on the whole trip (which is important when there are only a few restaurants in the area).
Chaaya Blu, Trincomalee http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/ChaayaBluTrincomalee.htm
This place was a bit of drive from the bustling main town but it’s location right on the beach was superb. Plus we loved the design of the lobby.
Cinnamon Wild, Yala http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonWildYala.htm
This hotel is right perfectly situated for safaris around Yala National Park. We loved the wild animals roaming around the grounds, the oasis-like pool, and the modern safari design of the lobby and lounge.
98 Acres Resort, Ella http://resort98acres.com/
Secluded bungalows with an incredible view of the green hills it is nestled amongst.
jamoandjen 