champagne & seafood at pier chic

pier chic restaurantDubai is absolutely brimming with incredible restaurants – traditional, modern, formal and casual. There really is no end to the options. Due to our very limited time Jen had to decide on just one fancy lunch place. She chose Pier Chic at the Al Qasr Madinat Jumeirah Hotel because it was in a beautiful waterside setting with views of the Burj al Arab and it had a great value special deal for lunch.  We arrived by taxi, walked through the luxurious hotel grounds and out along the pier to the glamorous restaurant.  When we got there the maître d’ politely explained that our reservation was for the previous day and that today they were not offering the lunch deal. Ahhhh, hrmm, oops. On Fridays Pier Chic only serve their Friday Bubbly Brunch from 10am-3pm. It was definitely more than we wanted to spend, but we were hungry and didn’t have a back-up option, so after a quick tour of the dining room we were sold. pier chic terraceThe brunch was AED 695 per person including bottomless beverages – Moët champagne, two different cocktails, red, white and rosé wine, fruit juices, soft drinks and sparkling water. The food was mostly served buffet style. There was a salad and vegetable section…pier chic saladDefinitely a step above your average buffet.

There was a chilled seafood bar with crab, prawns, sushi, mussels, pier chic chilledlobster tails, raw tuna and salmon,pier chic ice sculptureand fresh oysters waiting to be shucked.pier chic oystersOutside on the terrace there were two hot food stations – one serving scallops and the other serving foie gras.

pier chic scallop barIn addition to the buffet items we also had a delectable assortment of breads and we were asked to choose a soup and main course off a given menu. pier chic scalloppier chic platepier chic sea bassSea bass with corn puree and mushroom mousseline – delightful.

After we were well and truly stuffed on our mains we moved on to cheese and dessert – including an ice cream bar!
pier chic cheesepier chic cheesepier chic dessertpier chic dessertpier chic dessertIt was a very decadent meal and we thoroughly enjoyed it. The atmosphere was relaxed and the service was attentive and friendly. We certainly didn’t feel awkward going back for more and we never had to ask for another glass of champagne as the servers were on hand to refill.pier chic viewpier chic viewpier chic viewThe views of Burj al Arab and the Arabian Gulf were also a highlight. We will dream of this meal for years to come.

 

Friday Bubbly Brunch at Pier Chic, Al Qasr Madinat Jumeirah, Al Sufouh Road, Dubai, UAE 

http://www.jumeirah.com/en/hotels-resorts/dubai/madinat-jumeirah/offers/the-bubbly-friday-brunch-at-pierchic/

Sri Lanka run down

Colombo greenSri Lanka really is a fabulous place to visit and I would recommend it to anyone. So much is packed in to a fairly small island – jungle, beaches, mountains and highlands, rivers and lakes. There is something for everyone, and you can be sure that over the next decade hotels and services for tourists will just get bigger and better.

Weather

There’s no denying it, Sri Lanka was HOT and sticky when we visited. Mornings and evenings are the best times to be out and about. For the most part a fan was sufficient to cool us down, but we made sure that most of our hotel rooms had air-conditioning and we really needed the cool overnight. In Habarana our air-conditioning unit broke in the middle of the night and we both woke up because it was too hot to sleep (luckily it was only for a few  hours as the hotel engineer was able to come and fix it). The only exception was the central highland area (Horton Plains, Nuwara Eliya & Ella). Here we found the temperature cooler and really very pleasant.

Getting Around

We planned to pack quite a bit into our three week stint on the island. The places on our list were quite a distance apart and we were unfamiliar with the country so we opted for a private car with a driver/guide. Having now visited we know that it really wasn’t necessary. Most people we met spoke English well and everyone seemed to know at least a little bit. This meant asking for directions, ordering food and conversing was easy enough. Also transport was plentiful and cheap. Three-wheelers are everywhere in the towns and around tourist attractions, and if there aren’t already some waiting outside your hotel the staff will be happy to call one for you. For longer distances you could also take a three-wheeler, otherwise there is a popular train network in many parts of the country. In addition your hotel would be able to organise a car and driver, and there are also public and private buses – some with air conditioning some without.

If you do opt for a tour make sure to check if entry to attractions is included in the tour price! We had assumed entry was included as the attractions were listed in the itinerary, but they were not – and tourist prices were hefty.

Our Itinerary

As it was our first visit we were really after just the highlights of the island and we ended up with the itinerary summarised below.

Colombo

Negombo

Colombo – to watch the T20 Cricket final

Habarana – stopping at Pinnawela, Minneriya National Park & Sigiriya (Polonnaruwa is also nearby)

Trincomalee

Kandy – stopping at Dambulla Cave temple on the way

Nuwara Eliya  – stopping at Ramboda Falls & Mackwoods Tea Factory and visiting Horton Plains

Ella

Yala

Unawatuna & Galle

Colombo
On our next visit I’d want to stop past Jaffna in the far north, and would also visit Tangalle and Hikkaduwa in the south which we only saw while driving through.
I was glad we got to see the capital city Colombo but a day or two is plenty of time (unless you have a special interest in something there).

Food

Food was one of the things in Sri Lanka that Jen was most excited about. Although there isn’t much evidence in the photos the food was very good. After we left our friend in Colombo we weren’t sure how to get the food we were after and we would often eat meals in the hotel. The food was usually ok in hotels but it was mostly western food. As time went by we tested different local foods and fell in love with most of them. Below is a special mention for some of our favourites.

Seafood

Being surrounded by water, it goes without saying that Sri Lanka will have great seafood. Squid, cuttlefish, juicy prawns, shiny lobsters, succulent white fish and the reddest tuna. You can find it all and more in the island’s fish markets and restaurants.

Rice & Curry

If you like curry you will love Sri Lanka. Almost everywhere sells ‘rice and curry’. Each restaurant’s definition of it varies but you can specify vegetarian, fish, chicken, pork or beef. Out comes a massive plate of rice (white rice or red rice) and several different curry dishes, often accompanied by some popadams and maybe some pickle or chutney and usually a dhal.  Even the dodgiest looking establishments should have great rice and curry. Jen’s favourite curry hands down was pumpkin curry.

Hoppers

If you get the chance you must try hoppers! There are two types – hoppers made with rice flour and coconut milk (sometimes served with an egg inside), or string hoppers made with noodles. Both are delicious and are served as an accompaniment to curry.

Khottu

You can find khottu all over the island. It is roti (or sometimes string hoppers) chopped up together with your choice of meat, vegetables, egg and sometimes cheese. It is a real spectacle to watch it being made as the chef throws the ingredients onto a hotplate and clangs together to metal blades to chop and mix it all up.

Pani Pol

The name alone makes Jen salivate. Pani Pol refers to coconut cooked in a sweet syrupy mix of treacle and spices, and then wrapped in a thin pancake. Breakfast, tea time, dessert – get them whenever you can

Brinjal

From what we could tell this was fried and caramelised eggplant. Each place seems to serve it a little differently – with onion, spices, chilli, pineapple. It was always delicious and we couldn’t get enough of it.

Pol Sambol

This is a mixture of fresh shredded coconut, chilli and onion that is used as a condiment. It was served with EVERY single meal we had – it seems you won’t find a Sri Lankan table without it.

Short Eats

The term refers to an array of small snack items. We would often grab a selection of short eats – fish roti, samosas, dhal balls – from one of the any number of road-side stalls.

Hotels

We were very happy with most of the hotels we stayed in. That said, 4-star Sri Lanka is not the same as 4-star Britain so don’t expect the earth. The wifi is incredibly slow in hotels and there are still some of those quirks that all developing tourist spots have. And Sri Lankan tourism is indeed developing. Our guide was proud to explain that many new hotels – both large and boutique – were springing up all over the island.

Below is a list of four hotels we would happily return to.

Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonLodgeHabarana.htm

This place had a relaxed feel and one of the best buffet dinners we had on the whole trip (which is important when there are only a few restaurants in the area).

Chaaya Blu, Trincomalee http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/ChaayaBluTrincomalee.htm

This place was a bit of drive from the bustling main town but it’s location right on the beach was superb. Plus we loved the design of the lobby.

Cinnamon Wild, Yala http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonWildYala.htm

This hotel is right perfectly situated for safaris around Yala National Park. We loved the wild animals roaming around the grounds, the oasis-like pool, and the modern safari design of the lobby and lounge.

98 Acres Resort, Ella http://resort98acres.com/

Secluded bungalows with an incredible view of the green hills it is nestled amongst.

seaside in Unawatuna & Galle

Galle LighthouseWe had been looking forward to reaching Sri Lanka’s famous southern coast but it was bittersweet as it meant our jaunt around the island was drawing to a close. Heading westwards along the coastal highway we saw some lovely views out the car windows and made a brief stop in beautiful Tangalle (hopefully we’ll be back soon to stay at the stunning Amanwella). Further down the road we stopped at a Turtle Hatchery – entry was 500 Rp each.Sea Turtle HatcherySea Turtle HatcheryThere are five types of sea turtles that lay their eggs on the beach behind the hatchery. The staff collect the eggs before they can be snatched by poachers and rebury them inside the walls of the hatchery. When the eggs hatch the babies are kept in tanks until they are older and they will then be released into the ocean.

There are mixed views about intervening like this with the eggs, and it seemed very unnatural to see the older turtles swimming in circles in their stark concrete tanks. We were told they were recovering from injuries and when well enough they would be released, which was heartening. .TurtleIt was special to see turtles up close.

One was rescued after he lost a flipper.
Sea turtleWe continued along the road until we reached our hotel in Unawatuna.Unawatuna BeachCalamander UnawatunaCalamander Hotel is right on the beachfront.
UnawatunaIf you head to the beach and turn right you can weave your way around the beachfront restaurants and hotels to reach the wider stretch of Unawatuna Beach.UnawatunaUnawatunaOne of our favourite spots for a bite was Lucky Tuna where you could sit right over the water while eating delicious fresh seafood.Lucky TunaLucky Tuna prawnsLucky Tuna prawnsLucky Tuna calamariLucky Tuna view

A short drive west from Unawatuna sits Galle Fort. Founded by the Portuguese in the 16th Century its streets are a mix of cafes, boutiques and art galleries.  We stopped for lunch at the popular Galle Fort Hotel. Galle Fort HotelGalle Fort HotelGalle Fort HotelGalle Fort HotelGalle Fort Hotel poolGalle Fort Hotel water lilyThe hotel was formerly a merchant’s mansion in colonial times. The grounds are serene and were the perfect setting for a vodka, lime & soda and a light bite.Galle Fort Hotel G&TGalle Fort Hotel lunchYou can walk along the ramparts and past the lighthouse. We waited until sunset when the weather was cooler.Galle lighthouseGalleGalleGalleGalle sunset

Jamie woke up early one morning and headed to Mirissa to join a whale watching tour.  Mirissa The tour cost approximately US$50 and lasted around four hours. Whale watching boatAnother boat out whale watching in Mirissa

Apparently the whale-watching season lasts from November to April and there are several operators that leave from Mirissa Harbour each morning. There are no guarantees that you will see any whales but Jamie saw a pod of dolphins and a blue whale – the largest animal on earth! Although this is all he saw of it…Blue WhaleClick here to see what a blue whale looks like underwater.

 

 

tea + Nuwara Eliya

Nuwara EliyaNot too far from Horton Plains National Park is the beautiful Nuwara Eliya. On route we stopped off to take a look at the Ramboda Water Falls. The view from the road isn’t great but if you walk down the steep hill into the Ramboda Falls Hotel there is much better view and access closer to the falls.Ramboda FallsRamboda Falls Hotel

Entrance to the hotel is free however if you are a guest of the hotel or use the restaurant you an take their lift back up saving yourself from the stairs, and even better they have a van that will shuttle you up the short but very steep drive back to the road. Being that the temperature was still warm we had a beverage on the hotel’s lower terrace with a lovely view of the falls, and then took the lazy option back to the road. Worth every rupee!

tea plantationsDriving around this area is spectacular – winding mountains covered in a lush carpet of vivid green tea plantations.

tea plantWhen settlers arrived in the area they first tried growing coffee beans. The crops were decimated from a disease so they moved on to tea and the rest is history. Ceylon tea remains one of the best and most famous throughout the world. There are several tea factories that offer tours. Our guide took us to Mackwoods – one of the larger operations.

Mackwoods EstateA lady showed us around the factory floor and explain the basics of tea production. It was a holiday and so most areas of the factory were not in operation at the time of our tour but it was fascinating to see all the steps that tea takes before it is sold in shops.Mackwoods tea factoryMackwoods tea factoryMackwoods tea factoryAfter the tour (foreign) tourists can have a free cup of Mackwoods tea in their salon which has an attached shop. We also opted for a piece of their moist chocolate cake which was very cheap!

Mackwoods tea salonMackwoods tea salonAfter Mackwoods we continued winding around the tea plantations until we reached the town of Nuwara Eliya. In Nuwara Eliya we stayed at the Grand Hotel. It was a large, old colonial style hotel with beautifully landscaped English-style flower gardens.Grand HotelPhoto credit: Lakpura

Apart from the gardens and it’s great location in the centre of town it didn’t have too much else going for it. The staff were friendly enough and although wifi wasn’t available in the rooms it was a reasonable speed when we were able to access it in the lobby areas. The colonial style interior could be seen as charming by some, indeed the grand piano near the check-in desk was a nice touch, but the heavy-on-wood and old English patterned carpet and curtains look didn’t really float our boat. If you are in town though it is worth stopping by the Grand Indian Restaurant which is operated by the hotel. They have a tandoor oven and the food we had when we dined there on two occasions was sensational.Fun fair Nurwara EliyaThe hotel was booked solid, as was all accommodation in town, because, as we found out, Nuwara Eliya is a popular place for families to visit around the new year period. Each April the towns hosts a off-road car rally, a horse racing carnival and a family fun fair and food festival.Fun fair Nurwara EliyaFood festival Nurwara EliyaFood festival Nurwara EliyaGregory Lake Nurwara Eliyabusy day in Nurwara Eliyagames in Nurwara EliyaTurf ClubTurf ClubFoala

On our way out of Nuwara Eliya we made a stop at the Hanuman Temple.Hanuman TempleLegend has it that Hanuman himself jumped down from a nearby mountain and landed on the site of the temple. Many people travel from around the country and also from India to visit and see his footprints.Hanuman Temple footprintsHanuman Templebodhi tree at Hanuman Temple

cultural Kandy

Temple of the Tooth Relic

Kandy is thought of as the cultural capital of Sri Lanka. It sits in the geographical middle of the island and its most famous sight is undoubtedly the Temple of the Relic of the Tooth. It lies just north of the beautiful Kandy lake, and houses what is supposedly Buddha’s actual tooth.
Temple of the ToothInside you learn the story of how the tooth came to be in Kandy – it was snatched from Buddha’s cremation and smuggled into Sri Lanka by a princess and her prince.Temple of the ToothYou can’t actually view the tooth relic as it remains locked inside the centre of seven gold caskets. The key to each different casket is held by a different monk, so only when they are all together can all the caskets be opened to reach the relic.Temple of the ToothTemple of the ToothThe Temple of the Tooth Relic, called Sri Dalada Maligawa in Singhalese, is an esteemed and auspicious place to Sri Lankans. Many make a pilgrimage to come and worship at the temple.Temple of the Tooth - oil lampsTemple of the ToothTemple of the Tooth - bodhi treeThe grounds also house a very ancient Bodhi tree.

Kandy is also famous for its lavishly adorned dancers. We headed along to a show to watch some in action.Kandy dancersKandy dancersKandy dancersAs well as spectacular dancing, great costumes, drumming and percussion we were treated to spinning plates, fire eating and fire walking!Kandy dancersKandy dancersKandy dancersWhile it was a show put on purely for tourists it was very entertaining and exceeded our expectations. Jamo was worried it would be boring but it was actually very professional and action-packed. It was held in the Red Cross hall right on the lake and cost 500 Rupees for entry.

Continuing on the cultural theme we stopped past the Peradeniya Botanic Garden.

Botanic GardenBotanic Garden - orchidBotanic Garden - orchid
It was lovely to see a bit of nature but many of the plants and flowers are not native and there are better orchid displays at Bangkok Airport.Botanic Garden KandyWe love these Dr Suess-like wonky pines and also came across a tree panted by Britain’s Queen Elizabeth.

While we were in Kandy we stayed at the Amaya Hills Hotel. The hotel rests high on a hill about 15 minutes from town.Amaya HillsThe view is really something.Amaya HillsAmaya HillsAmaya HillsAmaya HillsApart from the view though the hotel is fairly run-of-the-mill. It did the job but we wouldn’t go back there. On our first night we braved the hotel buffet which was dismal so we vowed not to eat there again.

Instead we had a browse around the centre of town to try and sniff out some yumminess. We had arrived smack bang in the middle of the Tamil and Singha New Year. This is a time when families gather together to eat and pray. Almost all the restaurants in Kandy were closed and none of them were serving alcohol. At lunch we found a small restaurant that was open and jumped at the chance to try their version of rice and curry.Short Eats KandyLunch in KandyAs well as rice and curry and short eats we also ordered a yummy masala dosa.Kandy restaurantKandy foodKandy three wheelerWhen it came to dinner time all of the Tamil and Singha restaurants and shops were closed shut. Luckily for us the Muslim Hotel was open and bustling.Kandy Muslim HotelKandy Muslim HotelMaking the greasy naan bread.

Kandy Muslim HotelAs well as the requisite curry and dhaal it was also the first time we tried khottu.Kandy Muslim HotelKhottu is a ubiquitous Sri Lankan food served everywhere. It is made by mixing vegetables, egg or meat with either noodles or roti which is then chopped together (loudly!) on a hot plate. Very entertaining to watch!

Kandy Muslim Hotel

 Kandy three wheelerKandy Lake

Kandy really is a beautiful place to visit. Make sure you stop by if you are in Sri Lanka.

a peek at Chaaya Blu in Trincomalee

Chaaya Blu

When in Trincomalee, we stayed at the Chaaya Blu on Upuvali Beach.

Chaaya Blu - beachThe water in front of the hotel is a gorgeous aqua colour and is safe to swim in. The beach front itself can get quite windy though.

Chaaya BluWe both really liked the design of the hotel, especially the vivid colour scheme of white with pops of blue and orange.

Chaaya BluThe lobby

The hotel is not walking distance to Trincomalee town, but this could also be a good thing depending on how you see it. There is a small convenience store nearby that sells water and snacks, and in addition to the hotel’s restaurants there are a couple of basic restaurants in walking distance so you’re not completely isolated. When you do want to get to town it is only a cheap ride in a three-wheeler. There is usually one waiting in the driveway – if not then the hotel staff are happy to call one for you.

Chaaya BluInside the room

Chaaya BluView from our balcony

Chaaya BluWhite, blue and orange used throughout the hotel

Chaaya Blu - CrabThe Crab on-site restaurant

Chaaya Blu - CrabChaaya Blu - CrabDelicious food

Chaaya Blu - fishermanEach afternoon men would haul in a fishing net on the beach in front of the hotel

Pros

  • Beach front location
  • Lovely pool overlooking beach
  • Nice design and grounds
  • Balcony which overlooked the pool and had glimpses of the beach
  • Good breakfast
  • Cold towel and welcome drink while waiting to check-in

Cons

  • Wifi was free but absolutely dismal so we couldn’t use it
  • Room was smaller than most we had in SL
  • Extremely s-l-o-w food service at The Crab – we waited over an hour for food (although it was delicious)

 

Chaaya Blu, Sampative Post, UppuveliTrincomaleeSri Lanka 

http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/ChaayaBluTrincomalee.htm

tasting Trinco

Coconut

Sri Lanka has such fantastic food, but we were finding that many places our guide/driver was taking us to were serving western food. Time to take matters into our own hands.

In Trincomalee we headed to Annapoorani Vegetarian Restaurant for string hoppers! String hoppers (also known as iddiyappam are little baskets made of noodles that you use to scoop up curry and eat with your hands.

The two smaller metal dishes in the below photo show a staple at all Sri Lankan meals – sambol. It is grated coconut, sometimes plain or with herbs, but most often it comes mixed with chilli. We also tried coconut roti.

Trinco - string hoppers

These are another Sri Lankan food you can see sold everywhere – short eats.

Trinco - short eatsTrinco short eatsThat term can be used to refer to a whole variety of snacks – anything from fried dhaal balls, fish/egg/mutton wrapped in roti (sometimes fried sometimes baked), egg rolls fried in breadcrumbs, samosas, and many more.

Trinco - curry riceRice and curry is another hugely popular meal in Sri Lanka. A big pile of rice is served with various small spiced dishes. Above is tuna curry, curried aubergine, a vegetarian curry, dhaal and a sort of pickle with pineapple and onion.

Trinco - curry riceHere are the same dishes with the addition of a white fish curry, curried cuttlefish and fried papadums. YUM!

We liked it so much we went back to the same restaurant – City Hotel.

Trinco - City CafeThis time we had curry with hoppers.

City cafe hoppersHopper batter is made from rice flour and coconut milk mixed with either yeast or toddy (palm wine).

City cafe hoppers

City cafe hopper insideThe sides go crispy and the middle rises when cooked – the texture reminds me of a crumpet.

Cooking hoppersEgg hopperHoppers can also be served with an egg cracked into them. So tasty.

Trinco - coconutCoconut is such a staple of Sri Lankan cuisine. One of the best ways to enjoy it is simply hacked open – the coconut water is very refreshing on a hot day.

Just along the beach from our hotel was a small seafood restaurant. We pulled up some chairs here,  ordered some cold beers and asked what was fresh today. The owner brought out some beautiful fish and lobster. We settled on the fish and also ordered some prawns. Here’s the before shot…Trinco - fish restaurant…and after.Trinco - cooked fishNot sure what the name of this restaurant was but from Chaaya Blu you turn right and walk for about five minutes and it is really just a shack on Uppuveli beach. The seafood was ultra fresh though! You can also take your own seafood and ask them to cook it up for you.

 

 

City Hotel & Cream House, 473-475 Dockyard Road (next to Arafa Hotel), Trincomalee, Sri Lanka 

 

Anna Poorani Vegetarian Restaurant, 415 Dockyard Road, Trincomalee, Sri Lanka

http://www.tasty.lk/trincomalee/annapoorani-vegetarian-restaurant

 

 

Negombo / Jetwing Beach Hotel

Negombo fish market

 

The Jetwing Beach Hotel in Negombo was great for a bit of beach time away from the hustle and bustle of Colombo. We stayed only one night so didn’t see much but enjoyed relaxing and having a dip in the hotel pool.

Jet Wing Beach Pool

IMG_6977 edited

Beach in Negombo

Negombo - beach

We did stop at the fish market area, where fisherman hauled in their catch and where fish were spread out to dry in the hot sun.

Negombo fish market

Drying fish Negombo

Negombo fish market

IMG_7070 edited

Impromptu cricket match – a common sight!

IMG_7051 edited

A Hindu temple we passed by in Negombo

Jetwing Beach, Ethukale, Negombo, Sri Lanka http://www.jetwinghotels.com/jetwingbeach/

taking it easy in Colombo

Mt Lavinia view

We hadn’t originally planned to spend much time in Colombo but as it turned out we ended up with an extra four full days and were pleased to spend these relaxing and eating in Sri Lanka’s largest city.

Once you are out of the airport, one of the first things you will notice is how friendly the people are. Sinhalese and Tamil are the two official languages of Sri Lanka but English is taught in schools from a young age and is widely spoken, which makes conversation easy.

We were lucky to meet up with one of Jen’s friends who has Sri Lankan heritage and spends a lot of time in the country. After lazy mornings in the hotel we would meet up with TJ, jump in one of the ubiquitous three-wheeled tuk-tuks that zoom around the streets, and do some exploring.

Our first stop was Upali’s restaurant near the town hall in District 7 where we got our first taste of local Sri Lankan food. We then had a cruise around before jumping in a tuk-tuk back to Galle Face Green which was on the coast not far from our hotel – the Cinnamon Grand. By that time the stinging sun had started to set and the view over the water really was beautiful. The area around the green was lively and full of people – snack-sellers, kite-flyers, families, lovers, friends and even a group of school girls that waved and giggled at Jen’s pale foreign skin. A large screen was set up on the grass and flags were flying in preparation for the Twenty 20 World Cup cricket semi-final that was playing that night between Sri Lanka and the West Indies. (More about cricket in a later post)

Pier near Galle Fort Green

Galle Fort Green snack shop

Ocean near Galle Fort Green

Galle Fort Green swimmers

Galle Face Green - fishcakes

Galle Face Green snacks

The one thing Jen really wanted to do in Colombo was the Ministry of Crab restaurant. We met TJ and his friend for a quick drink first before splitting up into two tuk-tuks. It must be said that two in the back seat of a tuk was far more roomy than when three of us were squished in there! Ministry of Crab is owned by two former professional Sri Lankan cricketers – Mahela Jayawardene and Kumar Sangakkara, and the chef, Dharshan Munidasa, is also somewhat of a celebrity in Colombo. It is housed in the Old Dutch Hospital complex which had been largely off-limits after the close-by Central Bank was bombed by LTTE in 1996, but has been restored since the end of the war.

After gorging ourselves with a heavy lunch we took it fairly easy at dinner, ordering garlic prawns, chicken curry rice, and the star of the show – chilli crab! The crab meat was so sweet and fresh and the chilli sauce was intense and fiery. It was served with white bread to sop up the sauce and plastic bibs to protect our clothes from shell cracking mishaps. We didn’t take the big camera with us on this night but the Ministry of Crab website has some enticing photos.

The following afternoon we again met TJ and caught a tuk-tuk to Mount Lavinia in the southern part of Colombo. Here we had afternoon tea at the Mount Lavinia Hotel which was built in the early 1800s as a personal residence for the then British governor. Legend has it that he fell in love with a girl from a local dancing troupe and there is a tunnel underneath the original residence which leads to his lover’s house.

Mt Lavinia Hotel

Mt Lavinia Hotel guard

Mt Lavinia Hotel - train

Later we wandered along the beach and stopped for some beers and a bite to eat at The Shore by O! It was a lovely modern place over looking the beach and I wouldn’t hesitate in going back there again.

Mt Lavinia Beach

Shore by O! Food

Cinnamon Grand Hotel, 77 Galle Road, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonGrandColombo.htm

Upali’s, 65 CWW Kannangara Mawatha, Colombo 07, Sri Lanka https://www.facebook.com/upalisbynawaloka

Mount Lavinia Hotel, 100 Hotel Rd, Dehiwala-Mount Lavinia, Sri Lanka http://www.mountlaviniahotel.com/

The Shore By O!, 43/14 College Avenue, Mount Lavinia, Sri Lanka https://www.facebook.com/TheShoreByO

our thoughts on the Kala Samui Resort

Room 101 view from bedroom balcony

After the disappointment of our Mumbai failure we were in need of a real pick-me-up. Koh Samui offers an incredible selection of luxury accommodation and acknowledging that our budget wouldn’t stretch to the fabulous-looking W Hotel Samui or the Six Senses we were lucky to find that the Kala Samui Resort had last-minute half-price rooms.

What a spectacular property it is. Hugging the smooth rocks on the coast between busy Chaweng and Lamai beaches it really fit the bill.

We opted for one of the seven one-bedroom villas with a private pool. Room 101 has magnificent views over the turquoise ocean to the busy lights of Chaweng. It also is on the end of the row so is more private and the open-air rainfall shower was very impressive. The private pool is actually on the lower level below the bedroom but is a good size and receives a pleasing amount of sun in both the morning and afternoon. Down another set of stairs and you reach a small sun deck with a table and two chairs – a great spot to sink a few Singha beers while listening to lapping waves. Just a few steps from the sun-deck and you reach your own small rocky beach where the crabs go about their business and you can easily wade-in for a paddle or snorkel.

Room 101 bathroomRoom 101 bathroom

Room 101 outdoor showerRoom 101 outdoor rainfall shower

Inside room 101Inside room 101

Room 101 private pool deckRoom 101 private pool deck

View from the private poolView from the private pool

Main hotel poolMain hotel pool

Hotel's Rabbit BarThe hotel’s Rabbit Bar

Kala Samui breakfastDaily breakfast at the restaurant – yoghurt with mango, fruit plate and fruit pancakes

Kala Full BreakfastOther breakfast options all included in the room rate were banana muffins, toast, poached eggs with spinach, omelet with bacon and potato, or the Asian option of chicken with rice or noodles 

Pros:

  • Incredible views
  • Real feeing of luxury
  • Great breakfast included in the room rate and served any time you were ready up until 6pm
  • Direct access to small rocky beach and good snorkelling
  • Free Kayak and snorkel hire
  • Infinity pool
  • One free daily transfer to Chaweng Beach at 4pm and one free daily transfer to Lamai Beach at 11am

Cons

  • Not really walking distance to anywhere and not a lot of passing taxis so your best bet is booking a transfer with the hotel (300bht one-way to either Chaweng or Lamai)
  • Dinner at the hotel restaurant is pricey and portions are not large, although room service was better
  • Only a short 5-6pm daily happy which gives you two drinks from a selected list including for the price of one (and you are still paying more than you would for a cocktail on the beach)

 

The Kala Samui,  210/8 Moo 4, T.Maret, Koh Samui,Surat Thani 84310, Thailand

http://www.thekalasamui.com/