hello dubai

We only spent a few short nights in Dubai. In fact due to a flight cancellation and major re-route stuff up by our airline (Sri Lankan), our time in Dubai was limited to only two days.
On our first day we had a walk around near the Burj Khalifa – currently the tallest building in the world at approximates 828 metres. Tickets to the viewing deck sell out days in advance so if you want to go to the top make sure you book before you arrive.At the base of the tower is the Dubai Mall.  It feels very luxurious inside.It even has its own aquarium!Our one full night in Dubai was spent at Atlantis the Palm – a hotel Jamie has been keen to stay at for a number of years.

The taxi took us out along the stem of the palm islands and at the very tip we hit Atlantis.After checking in we headed up to check out our room.It was very comfortable and had a great view back across the palm to the main land.

The Atlantis is really spectacular. It has several pools and a private beach.It has several on-site restaurants. One of which is Nobu.
We stopped for a couple of cocktails.Most of our first afternoon and evening was spent at the hotels own water park – Aquaventure. The park is located on the hotel grounds and if you are staying at the hotel you don’t have to pay the entry fee. They even have a water slide that takes you through a shark tank!

Also very impressive is the Atlantis’ own aquarium – the Lost Chambers. Entry is free for hotel guests and all the rooms and tanks are designed around the sunken city theme.

 

 

Atlantis The Palm, Crescent Road, Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates

http://www.atlantisthepalm.com/

Sri Lanka run down

Sri Lanka really is a fabulous place to visit and I would recommend it to anyone. So much is packed in to a fairly small island – jungle, beaches, mountains and highlands, rivers and lakes. There is something for everyone, and you can be sure that over the next decade hotels and services for tourists will just get bigger and better.

Weather

There’s no denying it, Sri Lanka was HOT and sticky when we visited. Mornings and evenings are the best times to be out and about. For the most part a fan was sufficient to cool us down, but we made sure that most of our hotel rooms had air-conditioning and we really needed the cool overnight. In Habarana our air-conditioning unit broke in the middle of the night and we both woke up because it was too hot to sleep (luckily it was only for a few  hours as the hotel engineer was able to come and fix it). The only exception was the central highland area (Horton Plains, Nuwara Eliya & Ella). Here we found the temperature cooler and really very pleasant.

Getting Around

We planned to pack quite a bit into our three week stint on the island. The places on our list were quite a distance apart and we were unfamiliar with the country so we opted for a private car with a driver/guide. Having now visited we know that it really wasn’t necessary. Most people we met spoke English well and everyone seemed to know at least a little bit. This meant asking for directions, ordering food and conversing was easy enough. Also transport was plentiful and cheap. Three-wheelers are everywhere in the towns and around tourist attractions, and if there aren’t already some waiting outside your hotel the staff will be happy to call one for you. For longer distances you could also take a three-wheeler, otherwise there is a popular train network in many parts of the country. In addition your hotel would be able to organise a car and driver, and there are also public and private buses – some with air conditioning some without.

If you do opt for a tour make sure to check if entry to attractions is included in the tour price! We had assumed entry was included as the attractions were listed in the itinerary, but they were not – and tourist prices were hefty.

Our Itinerary

As it was our first visit we were really after just the highlights of the island and we ended up with the itinerary summarised below.

Colombo
⇒
Negombo
⇒
Colombo – to watch the T20 Cricket final
⇒
Habarana – stopping at Pinnawela, Minneriya National Park & Sigiriya (Polonnaruwa is also nearby)
⇒
Trincomalee
⇒
Kandy – stopping at Dambulla Cave temple on the way
⇒
Nuwara Eliya  – stopping at Ramboda Falls & Mackwoods Tea Factory and visiting Horton Plains
⇒
Ella
⇒
Yala
⇒
Unawatuna & Galle
⇒
Colombo
On our next visit I’d want to stop past Jaffna in the far north, and would also visit Tangalle and Hikkaduwa in the south which we only saw while driving through.
I was glad we got to see the capital city Colombo but a day or two is plenty of time (unless you have a special interest in something there).

Food

Food was one of the things in Sri Lanka that Jen was most excited about. Although there isn’t much evidence in the photos the food was very good. After we left our friend in Colombo we weren’t sure how to get the food we were after and we would often eat meals in the hotel. The food was usually ok in hotels but it was mostly western food. As time went by we tested different local foods and fell in love with most of them. Below is a special mention for some of our favourites.

Seafood

Being surrounded by water, it goes without saying that Sri Lanka will have great seafood. Squid, cuttlefish, juicy prawns, shiny lobsters, succulent white fish and the reddest tuna. You can find it all and more in the island’s fish markets and restaurants.

Rice & Curry

If you like curry you will love Sri Lanka. Almost everywhere sells ‘rice and curry’. Each restaurant’s definition of it varies but you can specify vegetarian, fish, chicken, pork or beef. Out comes a massive plate of rice (white rice or red rice) and several different curry dishes, often accompanied by some popadams and maybe some pickle or chutney and usually a dhal.  Even the dodgiest looking establishments should have great rice and curry. Jen’s favourite curry hands down was pumpkin curry.

Hoppers

If you get the chance you must try hoppers! There are two types – hoppers made with rice flour and coconut milk (sometimes served with an egg inside), or string hoppers made with noodles. Both are delicious and are served as an accompaniment to curry.

Khottu

You can find khottu all over the island. It is roti (or sometimes string hoppers) chopped up together with your choice of meat, vegetables, egg and sometimes cheese. It is a real spectacle to watch it being made as the chef throws the ingredients onto a hotplate and clangs together to metal blades to chop and mix it all up.

Pani Pol

The name alone makes Jen salivate. Pani Pol refers to coconut cooked in a sweet syrupy mix of treacle and spices, and then wrapped in a thin pancake. Breakfast, tea time, dessert – get them whenever you can

Brinjal

From what we could tell this was fried and caramelised eggplant. Each place seems to serve it a little differently – with onion, spices, chilli, pineapple. It was always delicious and we couldn’t get enough of it.

Pol Sambol

This is a mixture of fresh shredded coconut, chilli and onion that is used as a condiment. It was served with EVERY single meal we had – it seems you won’t find a Sri Lankan table without it.

Short Eats

The term refers to an array of small snack items. We would often grab a selection of short eats – fish roti, samosas, dhal balls – from one of the any number of road-side stalls.

Hotels

We were very happy with most of the hotels we stayed in. That said, 4-star Sri Lanka is not the same as 4-star Britain so don’t expect the earth. The wifi is incredibly slow in hotels and there are still some of those quirks that all developing tourist spots have. And Sri Lankan tourism is indeed developing. Our guide was proud to explain that many new hotels – both large and boutique – were springing up all over the island.

Below is a list of four hotels we would happily return to.

Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonLodgeHabarana.htm

This place had a relaxed feel and one of the best buffet dinners we had on the whole trip (which is important when there are only a few restaurants in the area).

Chaaya Blu, Trincomalee http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/ChaayaBluTrincomalee.htm

This place was a bit of drive from the bustling main town but it’s location right on the beach was superb. Plus we loved the design of the lobby.

Cinnamon Wild, Yala http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonWildYala.htm

This hotel is right perfectly situated for safaris around Yala National Park. We loved the wild animals roaming around the grounds, the oasis-like pool, and the modern safari design of the lobby and lounge.

98 Acres Resort, Ella http://resort98acres.com/

Secluded bungalows with an incredible view of the green hills it is nestled amongst.

safari time in Yala National Park

After checking in to our hotel we met our jeep driver and, along with our Sri Lankan guide/driver, we boarded a jeep and set off down the dirt road to Yala National Park.We stopped at the gates and climbed out to pay the entrance fees – it cost us approximately US$50 for two foreigners, vehicle entry, entry for one local (our driver/guide), service charge and tax.

Neither of us were quite prepared for just how spectacular Yala National Park was. It was filled many varying landscapes – thick bush and flat grasslands; marshy swamps and rocky ledges; not to mention the sandy beaches. Everywhere we looked there was life of some sort or another.

In the late afternoon our driver got a phone call – a leopard had been sighted – and we sped along the track to the reported location. There we found a few jeeps already lining the edge of the track and we were soon joined by many more as the news had spread. When we contorted our necks and strained our eyes we were able to glimpse two leopards through the bush. It was frustrating to know they were so close but that we didn’t have a great view. Still, we were excited to have seen some spots! No photos though.We stayed down the road from the park entrance at Cinnamon Wild. The individual huts here felt like a bit of luxury surrounded by nature.

Because of its location many wild animals show up on the hotel grounds. Like this guy…
…and these curious monkey’s having a convention outside our hut.

The next morning (while Jen slept soundly) Jamie awoke at 4.30am and met our driver/guide as well and our jeep driver from the day before and they all set off for a dawn safari.

Not long after making it through the gates they were rewarded with a leopard sighting!As well as some other characters.

 

 

Cinnamon Wild, Kirinda, Tissamaharama, Yala, Sri Lanka 

http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonWildYala.htm

Ella | 98 Acres Resort + visiting Dambatenne

After the fun of the fair in Nuwara Eliya we headed to the secluded 98 Acres Resort in nearby Ella. What a spectacular site/sight. After checking in we were escorted in a golf car the short distance to our bungalow.

The surrounding scenery and view had an instantly relaxing effect and to top it off the wifi was some of the quickest we’d had in Sri Lanka (until night time, when it stopped working altogether).
We sat down on our balcony with a couple of Lion beers, before heading a short distance up the hill to the main restaurant and bar.

Very close to the property is a popular Ella viewpoint – Little Adam’s Peak.Little Adam’s Peak is the mound on the left. Seen here from our balcony.

After slothing around all afternoon and morning we didn’t have any excuse not to make the short twenty-five minute hike to the top.
We took the stairs which are more direct but you can also take the winding path. Both are easy to follow.The view across the valley was worth the sweaty ascent. Thankfully there was a lovely breeze when we reached the top which cooled us down.

Dambatenne is an old tea factory established by Sir Thomas Lipton in 1890.Once the tea has been picked it makes its way to the factory. We opted to do a tour, but as it is a working factory they don’t allow any photographs whilst on the factory floor. We found this tour infinitely more interesting than the tour of Mackwoods. Mainly because the factory was hopping with activity and we could see the process – drying, sorting, fermenting – all taking place in front of us. The aroma of tea was fantastic and Jen was particularly enthralled. So much happens to those tea leaves before they reach the supermarket shelf. Most of the tea produced at the Dambatenne factory is sold to local and international distributers at the tea market in Colombo.Silver tip white tea – the finest and most expensive type of Ceylon tea.

We also drove past Diyaluma Falls near Koslanda and decided to make a short stop. The falls are approximately 200 metres high. Apparently you can climb to the top and swim in the pools.

tea + Nuwara Eliya

Not too far from Horton Plains National Park is the beautiful Nuwara Eliya. On route we stopped off to take a look at the Ramboda Water Falls. The view from the road isn’t great but if you walk down the steep hill into the Ramboda Falls Hotel there is much better view and access closer to the falls.

Entrance to the hotel is free however if you are a guest of the hotel or use the restaurant you an take their lift back up saving yourself from the stairs, and even better they have a van that will shuttle you up the short but very steep drive back to the road. Being that the temperature was still warm we had a beverage on the hotel’s lower terrace with a lovely view of the falls, and then took the lazy option back to the road. Worth every rupee!

Driving around this area is spectacular – winding mountains covered in a lush carpet of vivid green tea plantations.

When settlers arrived in the area they first tried growing coffee beans. The crops were decimated from a disease so they moved on to tea and the rest is history. Ceylon tea remains one of the best and most famous throughout the world. There are several tea factories that offer tours. Our guide took us to Mackwoods – one of the larger operations.

A lady showed us around the factory floor and explain the basics of tea production. It was a holiday and so most areas of the factory were not in operation at the time of our tour but it was fascinating to see all the steps that tea takes before it is sold in shops.After the tour (foreign) tourists can have a free cup of Mackwoods tea in their salon which has an attached shop. We also opted for a piece of their moist chocolate cake which was very cheap!

After Mackwoods we continued winding around the tea plantations until we reached the town of Nuwara Eliya. In Nuwara Eliya we stayed at the Grand Hotel. It was a large, old colonial style hotel with beautifully landscaped English-style flower gardens.Photo credit: Lakpura

Apart from the gardens and it’s great location in the centre of town it didn’t have too much else going for it. The staff were friendly enough and although wifi wasn’t available in the rooms it was a reasonable speed when we were able to access it in the lobby areas. The colonial style interior could be seen as charming by some, indeed the grand piano near the check-in desk was a nice touch, but the heavy-on-wood and old English patterned carpet and curtains look didn’t really float our boat. If you are in town though it is worth stopping by the Grand Indian Restaurant which is operated by the hotel. They have a tandoor oven and the food we had when we dined there on two occasions was sensational.The hotel was booked solid, as was all accommodation in town, because, as we found out, Nuwara Eliya is a popular place for families to visit around the new year period. Each April the towns hosts a off-road car rally, a horse racing carnival and a family fun fair and food festival.

On our way out of Nuwara Eliya we made a stop at the Hanuman Temple.Legend has it that Hanuman himself jumped down from a nearby mountain and landed on the site of the temple. Many people travel from around the country and also from India to visit and see his footprints.

cultural Kandy

Kandy is thought of as the cultural capital of Sri Lanka. It sits in the geographical middle of the island and its most famous sight is undoubtedly the Temple of the Relic of the Tooth. It lies just north of the beautiful Kandy lake, and houses what is supposedly Buddha’s actual tooth.
Inside you learn the story of how the tooth came to be in Kandy – it was snatched from Buddha’s cremation and smuggled into Sri Lanka by a princess and her prince.You can’t actually view the tooth relic as it remains locked inside the centre of seven gold caskets. The key to each different casket is held by a different monk, so only when they are all together can all the caskets be opened to reach the relic.The Temple of the Tooth Relic, called Sri Dalada Maligawa in Singhalese, is an esteemed and auspicious place to Sri Lankans. Many make a pilgrimage to come and worship at the temple.The grounds also house a very ancient Bodhi tree.

Kandy is also famous for its lavishly adorned dancers. We headed along to a show to watch some in action.As well as spectacular dancing, great costumes, drumming and percussion we were treated to spinning plates, fire eating and fire walking!While it was a show put on purely for tourists it was very entertaining and exceeded our expectations. Jamo was worried it would be boring but it was actually very professional and action-packed. It was held in the Red Cross hall right on the lake and cost 500 Rupees for entry.

Continuing on the cultural theme we stopped past the Peradeniya Botanic Garden.

It was lovely to see a bit of nature but many of the plants and flowers are not native and there are better orchid displays at Bangkok Airport.We love these Dr Suess-like wonky pines and also came across a tree panted by Britain’s Queen Elizabeth.

While we were in Kandy we stayed at the Amaya Hills Hotel. The hotel rests high on a hill about 15 minutes from town.The view is really something.Apart from the view though the hotel is fairly run-of-the-mill. It did the job but we wouldn’t go back there. On our first night we braved the hotel buffet which was dismal so we vowed not to eat there again.

Instead we had a browse around the centre of town to try and sniff out some yumminess. We had arrived smack bang in the middle of the Tamil and Singha New Year. This is a time when families gather together to eat and pray. Almost all the restaurants in Kandy were closed and none of them were serving alcohol. At lunch we found a small restaurant that was open and jumped at the chance to try their version of rice and curry.As well as rice and curry and short eats we also ordered a yummy masala dosa.When it came to dinner time all of the Tamil and Singha restaurants and shops were closed shut. Luckily for us the Muslim Hotel was open and bustling.Making the greasy naan bread.

As well as the requisite curry and dhaal it was also the first time we tried khottu.Khottu is a ubiquitous Sri Lankan food served everywhere. It is made by mixing vegetables, egg or meat with either noodles or roti which is then chopped together (loudly!) on a hot plate. Very entertaining to watch!

 

Kandy really is a beautiful place to visit. Make sure you stop by if you are in Sri Lanka.

a peek at Chaaya Blu in Trincomalee

When in Trincomalee, we stayed at the Chaaya Blu on Upuvali Beach.

The water in front of the hotel is a gorgeous aqua colour and is safe to swim in. The beach front itself can get quite windy though.

We both really liked the design of the hotel, especially the vivid colour scheme of white with pops of blue and orange.

The lobby

The hotel is not walking distance to Trincomalee town, but this could also be a good thing depending on how you see it. There is a small convenience store nearby that sells water and snacks, and in addition to the hotel’s restaurants there are a couple of basic restaurants in walking distance so you’re not completely isolated. When you do want to get to town it is only a cheap ride in a three-wheeler. There is usually one waiting in the driveway – if not then the hotel staff are happy to call one for you.

Inside the room

View from our balcony

White, blue and orange used throughout the hotel

The Crab on-site restaurant

Delicious food

Each afternoon men would haul in a fishing net on the beach in front of the hotel

Pros

• Beach front location
• Lovely pool overlooking beach
• Nice design and grounds
• Balcony which overlooked the pool and had glimpses of the beach
• Good breakfast
• Cold towel and welcome drink while waiting to check-in

Cons

• Wifi was free but absolutely dismal so we couldn’t use it
• Room was smaller than most we had in SL
• Extremely s-l-o-w food service at The Crab – we waited over an hour for food (although it was delicious)

 

Chaaya Blu, Sampative Post, Uppuveli, Trincomalee, Sri Lanka 

http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/ChaayaBluTrincomalee.htm

elephant time

Nursing severe hangovers we managed to get up, shower, have a quick breakfast and check out by an impressive 7am! If there was anything that was going to get us out of bed it was the promise of baby elephants!

We met our driver/guide and hit the road from Colombo to Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage (approx 90kms drive away).

When we arrived several cheeky baby elephants were waiting patiently to be fed their morning bottles of milk.  They made quick work of the large bottles, eagerly slurping them down in just a few seconds.

 

Apparently Pinnawala was first started as a sanctuary to care for orphaned or injured baby elephants. Although it seems to have developed into a circus/tourist attraction. The baby elephants were chained for their morning bottle feed which, while probably practical considering the number of tourists watching, it still wasn’t nice to see. Most of the larger elephants were unchained and seemed free to roam during the day, albeit watched closely by lots of men holding big sticks with sharp metal points on them. Our driver also explained that there is now a breeding program and many elephants are either sold or given away to Hindu/Buddhist temples –  several of these will probably live a lonely life chained up in the corner of a temple.

While we were standing a good distance away watching the larger elephants, a mahout (with his large stick) called us over to take a photo with one of the elephants, it was a little awkward and I didn’t understand what was going on, then it became apparent when he asked for 5000 Rupees (around US$35-40!!!). No we did not pay.

It was soon bathing time so the hordes of tourists cross the road and walk town a path lined with shops to the gorge. The herd of elephants soon arrived and were ushered into the water by the men with sticks. We saw one mahout poke an elephant in his foot which was distressing. People say their skin is tough so it is only like a nudge but it wasn’t nice to see. The elephants then stand around for a while. A few sprayed water over themselves with their trunks.

Even though we were in the shade it was blisteringly hot, so we decided we’d seen enough and got back on the road.

We checked into our lovely hotel – the Cinnamon Lodge in Habarana – and found the area plagued with monkeys!

These fellas were curious to see inside our room…

After a swim in the pool to cool down, a jeep arrived to collect us and take us to Minneriya National Park.

We paid the entrance fee and headed inside the park. After about 10 minutes driving along a dirt track the jungle cleared and we spotted our first wild elephant.

 A young male thrashing some grass with his trunk. Immediately you could tell this elephant was happier than those we saw at the Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage.

The jeep continued over a shallow creek and into a larger clearing revealing maybe fifty or so elephants, of all sizes, heading to the lake.

It was very special to watch.

Elephants weren’t the only thing we saw that afternoon. There was also a few crocodiles, plenty of birds, and this guy…

Undoubtedly the highlight of the day was spying this fellow…

The largest male we saw. He emerged from the jungle, strutted over to the lake and proceeded to give himself a long bath. Afterwards he started approaching the jeeps that had gathered around to gawk. As we drove away he took a particular interest in our jeep and followed us at quite a pace.

He got very close but luckily lost interest and changed direction. Phew!

 

 

Cinnamon Lodge Hotel, Ambepussa-Kurunegala-Trincomalee Hwy, Habarana, Sri Lanka

http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonLodgeHabarana.htm

 

 

 

 

Negombo / Jetwing Beach Hotel

 

The Jetwing Beach Hotel in Negombo was great for a bit of beach time away from the hustle and bustle of Colombo. We stayed only one night so didn’t see much but enjoyed relaxing and having a dip in the hotel pool.

We did stop at the fish market area, where fisherman hauled in their catch and where fish were spread out to dry in the hot sun.

Impromptu cricket match – a common sight!

A Hindu temple we passed by in Negombo

Jetwing Beach, Ethukale, Negombo, Sri Lanka http://www.jetwinghotels.com/jetwingbeach/

taking it easy in Colombo

We hadn’t originally planned to spend much time in Colombo but as it turned out we ended up with an extra four full days and were pleased to spend these relaxing and eating in Sri Lanka’s largest city.

Once you are out of the airport, one of the first things you will notice is how friendly the people are. Sinhalese and Tamil are the two official languages of Sri Lanka but English is taught in schools from a young age and is widely spoken, which makes conversation easy.

We were lucky to meet up with one of Jen’s friends who has Sri Lankan heritage and spends a lot of time in the country. After lazy mornings in the hotel we would meet up with TJ, jump in one of the ubiquitous three-wheeled tuk-tuks that zoom around the streets, and do some exploring.

Our first stop was Upali’s restaurant near the town hall in District 7 where we got our first taste of local Sri Lankan food. We then had a cruise around before jumping in a tuk-tuk back to Galle Face Green which was on the coast not far from our hotel – the Cinnamon Grand. By that time the stinging sun had started to set and the view over the water really was beautiful. The area around the green was lively and full of people – snack-sellers, kite-flyers, families, lovers, friends and even a group of school girls that waved and giggled at Jen’s pale foreign skin. A large screen was set up on the grass and flags were flying in preparation for the Twenty 20 World Cup cricket semi-final that was playing that night between Sri Lanka and the West Indies. (More about cricket in a later post)

The one thing Jen really wanted to do in Colombo was the Ministry of Crab restaurant. We met TJ and his friend for a quick drink first before splitting up into two tuk-tuks. It must be said that two in the back seat of a tuk was far more roomy than when three of us were squished in there! Ministry of Crab is owned by two former professional Sri Lankan cricketers – Mahela Jayawardene and Kumar Sangakkara, and the chef, Dharshan Munidasa, is also somewhat of a celebrity in Colombo. It is housed in the Old Dutch Hospital complex which had been largely off-limits after the close-by Central Bank was bombed by LTTE in 1996, but has been restored since the end of the war.

After gorging ourselves with a heavy lunch we took it fairly easy at dinner, ordering garlic prawns, chicken curry rice, and the star of the show – chilli crab! The crab meat was so sweet and fresh and the chilli sauce was intense and fiery. It was served with white bread to sop up the sauce and plastic bibs to protect our clothes from shell cracking mishaps. We didn’t take the big camera with us on this night but the Ministry of Crab website has some enticing photos.

The following afternoon we again met TJ and caught a tuk-tuk to Mount Lavinia in the southern part of Colombo. Here we had afternoon tea at the Mount Lavinia Hotel which was built in the early 1800s as a personal residence for the then British governor. Legend has it that he fell in love with a girl from a local dancing troupe and there is a tunnel underneath the original residence which leads to his lover’s house.

Later we wandered along the beach and stopped for some beers and a bite to eat at The Shore by O! It was a lovely modern place over looking the beach and I wouldn’t hesitate in going back there again.

Cinnamon Grand Hotel, 77 Galle Road, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/CinnamonGrandColombo.htm

Upali’s, 65 CWW Kannangara Mawatha, Colombo 07, Sri Lanka https://www.facebook.com/upalisbynawaloka

Mount Lavinia Hotel, 100 Hotel Rd, Dehiwala-Mount Lavinia, Sri Lanka http://www.mountlaviniahotel.com/

The Shore By O!, 43/14 College Avenue, Mount Lavinia, Sri Lanka https://www.facebook.com/TheShoreByO